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An example of a  notched no-measure lid available with this technique. Fast and easy to do, these forms also are a great learning tool because cutting the lid reveals any problems with throwing, trimming and craftsmanship.

December 31, 2007

Technique of the Week: Make No-Measure Lids

by Doug Gray | Read Comments (4)

Learning to throw is challenging, from the initial struggle to center, to establishing height and thin even walls. The following closed form is one of several forms I use when I teach students to throw and trim. It’s a fast and easy method for creating lidded forms without calipers or measurements of any kind. And the best part is that the lids fit perfectly each and every time.

Throwing and Forming
Throw a slight conical shape, keeping the rim open only wide enough to get a couple of fingers inside. Leave a thick bead of clay at the rim. A thicker rim is beneficial both for closing the form and creating a knob. Once the height is established and the clay wall thinned sufficiently, round the form by exerting more pressure from the inside. Push through the thick bead of clay at the rim to close the form (see figure 1 below). Keep a finger or two inside the form to support the clay wall while you close. If your fingers are too big, try using a pencil or handle of a tool. Remove any water that might remain in the bottom of the form before you close it completely.

Trimming
Create a knob from the excess clay by applying pressure from the top and support from the side. Undercut the knob slightly using the rounded end of a tool for a more dramatic profile. This makes the knob easier to grasp once glazed and fired. Use a soft flexible rib to refine the overall form (see figure 2). At the leatherhard stage, place the piece upside down in a bisquefired chuck to help you level the piece by trimming away high spots, then create a foot ring.

Designing the Lid
Turn the form right side up in the chuck. Level and use a needle tool to score two faint concentric circles to help you design the lid (see figure 3). Rather than cutting a circular lid that will slide around, draw a modified, notched lid with the aid of a round plastic form. The notches are located at 90° intervals and prevent the lid from slipping either right to left or front to back. Two notches would be sufficient, but add a third to visually balance the form.

Cutting and Finishing Up
Holding a thin knife blade at a 45° angle, cut the lid from the form (see figure 4), smooth unwanted score lines, crumbs and sharp edges or corners with a wet finger or sponge. These areas tend to trap glaze, even when waxed over, and these droplets of glaze can be enough to fuse the lid shut during firing.
       
123107nomeasurelids_01.jpg   123107nomeasurelids_02.jpg   
       
123107nomeasurelids_03.jpg   123107nomeasurelids_04.jpg

For Further Information
See a term you weren’t quite sure of? Then visit the Ceramic Arts Daily Glossary. To see more of Doug’s work, visit http://alpha1.fmarion.edu/finearts/deginf1.htm.

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4 Comments

Add Your Own Comment

Darryl | July 9, 2008 5:18 pm

Keep in mind that making more than one notch means the lid may have to be turned several times to match up correctly. That is a potential frustration for user.


Wendy | April 3, 2008 1:40 pm

I always thoroughly enjoy all the features. Some I can use; others I can't but its always fun learning.


Samantha | January 12, 2008 11:44 am

I mentioned this tip in ceramics class. It seems like a wonderfully viable solution to lids for someone that loves throwing pottery but does so with the disadvantage of full sight. Plus, the aesthetics sound absolutely wonderful while providing a whole other level of creativity for lids.


Suzy | January 10, 2008 2:34 am

Very interesting. Will be trying this out first chance I get. As a beginner, this is a great help to me.