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Wood-fired, hand-built jar by Karen Terpstra.
She states, “I try not to predetermine too much of the form when I start but
rather let the handbuilding process determine the ultimate result.”
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December 17, 2007
Making Large Jars
by Karen Terpstra | Read Comments (1)
Making large jars with flat coils has been done
for centuries in many parts of Asia and Southeast Asia.
I started learning with small jars and teapots, but now I make large jars that
defy gravity and would normally collapse if wheel thrown. This method lends
itself to a variety of sculptural forms, and it saves time by using 2-inch flat
coils instead of small round coils.Get startedRoll the clay through the slabroller about 1/8
to 1/4 inch larger than your desired wall thickness. The walls will be thinner
by the time you smooth and paddle the shape. Cut the clay into flat coils about
2 inches wide for a large jar. Build up three to six rows of “coils” on several
ware boards at one time. By the time you’re finished with the last one, you can
start again on the first one. For further information on Karen Terpstra's approach to
creating large forms, as well as many other artists’ forming
techniques, check out Throwing and Handbuilding. Build lower section of jarSlightly dampen the ware board or bat for the
first flat coil. Attach the flat coil firmly in place then secure another flat
coil. Since you will be building the lower section of the jar upside down,
place the flat coil to the inside of the previous flat coil. This makes the
diameter become smaller with each row (see figure 1, below). Also, put plastic
on the inside of the jar to hold in the moisture. Smooth the seams inside and
out while building.Add strength to wallsLet the first few rows strengthen to leatherhard so that they will hold the weight of additional coils. Once the lower
portion is leatherhard, keep it wrapped in plastic, so that it doesn’t dry out
as you continue to work. Once the lower portion of the jar is completed and
leatherhard, you need to strengthen the walls. I use a paddle and a rounded
piece of wood I call an “anvil,” which I hold on the inside of the pot (figure 2).
This technique also helps to obtain the desired shape. Cut out a circle from a
slab for the bottom of the jar. slip, score and attach the bottom and paddle it
to reinforce the seam.Add rim and finish upCover the piece and let it strengthen overnight.
The next morning, turn the jar over, and score and slip the edge, and add a
small round coil to the edge. The fresh coil provides an anchor to work off of
while adding more flat coils. Now that the jar is right side up, you can add
the shoulder (figure 3). Cut out a rim from a slab and attach to the top of the
jar. Sometimes I smooth the jar a bit more, or alter the rim by rotating it
slowly on the wheel and using a wet sponge or rib (figure 4).    For Further InformationSee a term you weren’t quite sure of? Then visit the Ceramic Arts Daily Glossary. To see more of Karen’s work, visit www.uwlax.edu/faculty/terpstra.
Read more about these related topics:
Handbuilding Functional Ceramics Functional Pottery Ceramic Art Techniques
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