View Larger Image "The Three Sisters," 22 inches in height. The author and artist begins each raku mural with a series of small drawings that are eventually enlarged to actual size.

November 23, 2007

Firing, Assembling the Raku Wall Mural

by Barbara VanSickle | Read Comments (0)

In the second part of "Making a Raku Mural" on Wednesday, you learned about transferring the design, the drying process, and glazing. Today, author and artist Barbara VanSickle looks at firing using raku and assembling the mural.

Raku
I fire my mural pieces in a raku kiln (figure 9 below). Due to the extreme range of reduction effects that influence the glaze surface and color development, try to fire tiles that will be side by side in the mural in the same load. If possible place them in the same reduction chamber together. Use a pyrometer and time each fire to get the greatest consistency between loads, and try to fire under the same conditions if your work will take longer than a day. This process takes considerable planning but the results are well worth the effort. If you get too much or too little reduction on a particular piece, remember that you can always refire.

Assemble the Mural
Reassemble the mural (figure 10) and measure the finished height and width. This is the base measurement for your mounting board. Where and how your work is hung determines the type of material for mounting. If you’re working on a project any larger that 8 square feet, use plywood. For smaller murals, I recommend L-inch-thick medium density fiber board (MDF) as it is lighter, though on larger murals it can warp.

For a mural the size made here, mark the MDF board roughly three-fourths of the way up from the bottom edge and drill 1/4-inch holes 2 inches in from either side. Countersink the holes on the front of the board deep enough for a 1/4-inch nut to be flush with the face. Drill two large diameter washers to accept the hanging wire and bend them slightly outward. Attach the washers to the back of the board through the 1/4-inch bolt head and tighten.



Prime the MDF and, when thoroughly dry, apply paint (I prefer matt black). Allow the paint to dry completely for 24 hours, then spread a good quality construction glue to the mounting board, keeping it off anywhere that will show when done (figure 11). Beginning at the bottom, apply the glue to the back of the tiles, one or two at a time, and assemble. The glue dries very fast, so you’ll need to work quickly (figure 12).


When it is completely dry (at least 8 hours), grout the mural. Remember in your planning that grout comes in many colors so it can further enhance the final project. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the grout begins to thicken, pour it on the mural paying particular attention to the small spaces between each tile (figure 13). Gradually remove the extra grout using a damp sponge, changing the water frequently. Allow to dry.

Finishing Up: Hang the Raku Wall Mural
Thread heavy duty picture wire through the holes in the washers and adjust the length appropriately.

For More Information
Visit www.galacticglass.ca/barbara.html to see more of Barbara's work. Also, Barbara VanSickle's article, "Art on the Wall: Making a Raku Mural" from which today's feature is excerpted, can be found in its entirety in the handbook, Raku, Pit and Barrel: Firing Techniques, available in the Ceramic Arts Daily Bookstore.