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Tips for Making a Teapot Gem
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Center a well-wedged 11/2 pound lump of clay on a removable bat. I use porcelain for my teapots because it has a better color response with my glazes.
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It is important not to overwork the clay, especially in the early stages of the process. In three passes, you should have the approximate form.
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I use a push stick to expand and redefine the form. I follow the push stick on the outside with a metal rib to smooth the surface and remove excess moisture.
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One feature I like to add to many of my teapots is a “moat.” It provides not only a visual base for the teapot, but also functions as a glaze catch.
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Begin the moat with a rounded tool and push in and down into the base. Using a bevel tool, round over the edge and move the tool underneath to provide lift.
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Next, I alter the teapot with a rib in a couple of passes, creating an interesting movement within the shape |
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I use a small roller and further alter the gesture of the form. After completing these alterations, I wire off the piece and remove it with the bat to set up.
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To create a spout, roll out a tapered coil then push a stick into it. With the stick inside, roll the coil to expand it.
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Once the spout is soft leather hard, cut it to the appropriate length, trim the end and attach it to the teapot body.
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Adjust the spout to the correct angle and add pouring holes.
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For the feet, roll and taper 3-inch coils. Gently flatten one side of the coil, then pick it up and curl each end toward the center. Set aside until soft leather hard.
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For the handle, roll out a 6-inch coil that’s tapered on each end. Shape the handle into
an interesting shape |
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I throw lids off the hump using a small homemade tool.
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A finished teapot. The teapots are bisque fired then glazed with commercial cone 06–04 glazes combined with cone 6 glazes, and final fired to cone 6 in oxidation.
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